Welcome at Gripped Magazine October-November 2023 Issue

There’s no better time of year to be a crag climber than now. As the days get shorter and the conditions crisper, you can finally put your summer of climbing hard and projecting to the test. Whether it’s friction slab or steep jugs, cooler temperatures give you that tacky advantage that you didn’t have midsummer. Not to mention the wildfire smoke has dissipated and the crowds have returned to their routines away from the rock.
When heading out for some fall cragging, be sure to pack the essentials, such as the puffy jacket, a toque and maybe some mitts. The mornings will be cool, so be prepared to strip off layers throughout the day, especially on those steep approaches. You probably won’t have to worry about mosquitoes or a scorching sun, so leave the bug spray and sunscreen lotion at home.
One of my favourite ways to crag in October and November is by arriving just after noon with a big bag packed with cozy layers, a thermos of tea and snacks to munch on until home time, just before the sun dips. If you’re lucky enough to be in an area with a variety of leafy trees, then maybe bring an extra rope so you can fix a line to take some photos.
And if you’re hoping to get some photos of the fall colours, bring some bright layers so you pop against the darker rock. By late fall, when the leaves have all dropped and the ground begins
to freeze in the morning, many climbers will opt to hit the gym instead of the crag. But from years of experience, this is when you’ll have some of your best days. Those just-above-freezing temperatures can create some of the best conditions for climbing hard slab and vertical lines.
I often wear a baggy puffy coat between burns, one big enough that I can put my shoes close to my chest. That way, your toes will stay warm when you go to lace up again. And don’t be afraid to head out just because the snow has started to fall. Find a crag with routes steep enough that it doesn’t accumulate snow. Because it’s too chilly to thaw anything, the rock will be free of seepage until spring. You might want to bring a rope that’s rated for damp or wet weather, as the midday heating will melt any snow or frost at the base of the wall.
By this time of year, your mental games should be at their best all rock season. Just remember there’s a balance of trying hard while not wanting it too much. Keeping the desire to climb the rock into the fall is important so you can put down those summer projects. Keep the stoke up, put in the extra effort—and “grrr” down a little bit harder as this rock season winds down, you’ll be happy that you did. Enjoy your fall cragging!
Brandon Pullan

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