Food & Wine USA – February 2022
English | 112 pages | pdf | 255.63 MB
HOW HAS YOUR IDEA OF HOME changed in the past two years?
For me, home will continue to double as my part-time office, one with the fringe benefit of a well-stocked snack drawer. For my daughters,
junior Siskel and Ebert for the Netflix Kids set, home is a movie theater several nights a week, one equipped with a wood-burning fireplace.
In this annual Home Issue, we tackle the evolving meanings of home now that winter is upon us. For the Mahendro family, the restaurateurs behind Badmaash, a modern Indian concept in Los Angeles, the lines between home and work blur. As Restaurant Editor Khushbu Shah reports, the Mahendros, who operate three restaurants and a catering kitchen in Los Angeles, make cooking together in their off hours a priority. That’s when, away from the bustle and gleam of their professional kitchens, they nurture a sense of home while sharing family recipes like roast beef (recipe p. 81) and noodle salad (p. 78). Cookbook author Von Diaz opens the door to Boricua Soul, a restaurant in Durham, North Carolina, that became a safe harbor for her during the pandemic thanks to the generosity and community-mindedness of owners Toriano and Serena Fredericks (not to mention their Puerto Rican–meets–Southern cooking; get the recipe for their pernil mac
and cheese—cheesy noodles topped with garlicky, tender shredded pork—on p. 103).
A common thread in these stories is the sense of connection fostered by gathering around food, whether we share it in our own kitchens or at a favorite eatery. It’s a theme that writer and mental health advocate Alexander Hardy explores in “A Room Full of Love.” After difficult years living in homeless shelters and struggling with depression, Hardy found his sanctuary and self-acceptance through the simple, generous act of cooking for his friends. (He also shares his root vegetable galette, the pastry inspired by his grandmother’s legendary empanada crust recipe, on p. 31.) Building on my dabbles with sourdough and a full-blown pizza obsession, my kitchen island has become a place to experiment with whole
grains and flours. Former editor in chief of Food & Wine Italia Laura Lazzaroni’s story,“Bakers on the Rise” (p. 82), includes recipe from women on the cutting edge of artisan
baking, and I can’t wait to try Lazzaroni’s own fluffy Italian flatbreads (p. 88), made using Italian semola rimacinata flour.
We hope this magazine issue brings you moments of discovery, delight, and comfort in your own homes, whether it’s a new bread recipe to try, or Culinary Director at Large Justin Chapple’s short rib chili (p. 44) that he developed for you with cozy nights in mind.
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