Here, there and everywhere

There is a rather strange contradiction at the heart of Italian wine (not to mention its food). On one hand, it can be intensely local; somebody once told me of an Italian saying which runs ‘abroad starts at your mother’s doorstep’. If you spend any time in Italy you’ll find that the shape of the pasta, the aperitivo sipped outside the local café and of course the type of wine varies vastly and constantly, seemingly every few hundred metres. And yet despite this fierce attachment to regionality, Italian influences are felt all over the world. Not always unaltered, as the red-tableclothed meatball joints of the USA or the UK’s woefully inauthentic spaghetti bolognese can attest, but strongly nonetheless. So in this issue we feature both sides of that dichotomy – great Italian food and wine in London, US winemakers who have taken Italy to their hearts, and a huge variety of the many highly local Italian wines that have captured palates internationally. Italy’s appeal is local, yet global. A neat trick. Now where did I park my Vespa? They’re perfect in London.

Chris Maillard, Editor-in-Chief
[email protected]

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