Bon Appetit – September 2023
English | 92 pages | pdf | 35.1 MB
Editor in chief Dawn Davis shares what’s on her mind and gets a little help and intel from the BA test kitchen
Q: I was particularly drawn to this month’s beautiful story about wild Alaskan salmon, “Flavors of the Wild,” page 48. I’ve always wanted to travel to the 49th state—and salmon is always a crowd-pleaser. One detail in the story that caught my attention was that Claire Neaton, one of the Salmon Sisters, is quoted as saying that frozen fish is actually the freshest kind you can buy. I’d love for you to expand!
Food director Chris Morocco says: Seafood is a very nuanced category of food products and in a lot of ways defies generalizations like these—there are just so many different sourcing and processing methods to take into account. Labels like “fresh” and “frozen” don’t always tell the full story. Much of the seafood that gets sold as fresh has, in fact, been frozen at some point, and that isn’t necessarily a bad thing! Even highly soughtafter fish intended for sushi often goes through a deep-freezing process intended to kill any potential parasites. When it comes to buying fish from the supermarket, though, Neaton is definitely onto something. In many cases the seafood you see displayed on ice arrived at the store frozen and was thawed prior to sale. Unfortunately, there isn’t a great way of determining whether that process took place yesterday or…four days ago. Which is what she’s getting at: High-quality frozen fish that you thaw yourself before you intend to cook it is often the freshest and best-tasting product a home cook can work with.
End-of-summer island vibes
Before I book my bucket list tickets to Alaska, I’m considering returning to Hawaii for a stay at the stunning Mauna Lani resort on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast. It’s about as close to paradise as you can get, and, to me, its Japanese-inspired CanoeHouse restaurant alone is worth the trip across six time zones. If you don’t yet have plans for Labor Day weekend, there may still be tickets available for the Mauna Lani Culinary Classic, where our very own Shilpa Uskokovic will join a host of chefs like Andrew Zimmern, Stephanie Izard, and Sheldon Simeon for four days of food, wine, and more island fun. Hope to see you there!
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